# Found an Injured Wild Animal?

> If you find an injured wild animal, contain it somewhere dark, quiet and warm — a ventilated cardboard box lined with a towel — and contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator or veterinary practice immediately. Do not offer food or water, do not attempt treatment, and keep handling to the absolute minimum. Many apparently orphaned young animals are not orphaned at all, so the first question is always whether the animal genuinely needs intervention.

**Target query:** what to do if you find an injured wild animal

## Stats
| Stat | Detail |
| --- | --- |
| Dark, quiet, warm | The three things that help most |
| No food or water | A common and dangerous mistake |
| Minimal handling | Stress kills wild animals |
| Call first | Rehabilitator or vet, before acting |

## First: Does It Actually Need Help?
The most common wildlife "rescue" is a mistake, and it usually involves a young animal that was never in trouble.

**Fledgling birds on the ground are normal.** A bird with feathers, hopping and unable to fly well, is at a standard developmental stage and its parents are almost certainly nearby and feeding it. Removing it is the single most frequent well-intentioned harm done to wild birds. A nestling — naked or downy, clearly too young — genuinely does need help.

**Fawns and leverets are left alone deliberately.** Deer leave fawns hidden for hours; hares leave leverets in a form in the open. A young animal sitting still and alone is following instinct, not abandoned.

**Foxes and other young mammals** frequently appear unattended while a parent forages.

Clear signs that intervention IS needed: visible blood or a wound; an obviously broken limb or a wing held at an odd angle; the animal has been in a cat's mouth, which requires veterinary treatment even with no visible injury because of bacterial infection; flies or maggots on the animal; a known dead parent; the animal is cold, weak, unresponsive or shivering; or it is in immediate danger where it lies, such as on a road.

If you are unsure, observe from a distance for a couple of hours before acting. That single step prevents most unnecessary removals.

## How to Contain an Animal Safely
If intervention is genuinely needed, the goal is to get the animal contained and to a professional with as little stress as possible. Stress kills wild animals — capture myopathy is a real and frequently fatal condition — so speed and quiet matter more than gentleness of technique. Fear and distress are welfare problems in their own right, not merely unpleasant ones; see /rescue/what-is-animal-welfare.

**Protect yourself first.** Wear thick gloves. Wild animals bite and scratch when frightened, regardless of injury. Never handle a bird of prey, heron, swan, gull, deer, badger, fox, bat or snake without training or instruction — beaks, talons, hooves and teeth cause serious injury, and some carry disease risk. For those species, call and wait.

**Use a cardboard box**, not a wire cage. Punch ventilation holes from the inside out so no sharp edges point inwards. Line it with a towel or unravelled kitchen roll, not straw or hay.

**Cover the animal with a towel to pick it up**, supporting the body, and place it in the box. Close the box securely — animals recover and escape into vehicles.

**Then leave it alone.** Somewhere dark, quiet, warm and away from pets, children and household noise. Do not check on it repeatedly. Every look is another predator encounter as far as the animal is concerned.

## What Never to Do
These are the mistakes that most often turn a survivable situation into a fatal one.

**Do not give food or water.** This is the most important item on the page. A cold, shocked or dehydrated animal cannot digest, and fluid given by mouth is frequently inhaled into the lungs. Many animals that arrive at rehabilitators die of aspiration pneumonia caused by well-meaning feeding rather than the original injury. Rehydration is done by professionals, often subcutaneously, once the animal is warm.

**Do not give cow's milk to any wild mammal.** It is not nutritionally appropriate for any of them and causes severe gastrointestinal problems.

**Do not attempt treatment.** No splints, no antiseptic, no human painkillers. Many common human medications are toxic to animals, and a badly set limb often has to be re-broken.

**Do not keep it.** Wild animals need species-appropriate rehabilitation and a release plan, and in many places keeping wildlife without a licence is an offence. An animal that becomes habituated to humans usually cannot be released.

**Do not take photographs for social media before it is stabilised.** The delay costs the animal.

## Who to Call
Contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator or a veterinary practice. Both will take the animal, and vets in most countries will treat injured wildlife brought in by the public without charging the finder.

**In the UK**, the RSPCA operates a 24-hour cruelty and advice line, and local independent wildlife hospitals and rescues exist in most areas. The British Divers Marine Life Rescue handles marine mammals and stranded cetaceans.

**In the United States**, wildlife rehabilitators are licensed at state level. Your state's fish and wildlife agency maintains a directory, and most areas have independent rehabilitation centres. Some species — migratory birds, raptors — require specifically permitted rehabilitators.

**Anywhere**, a local veterinary practice is a good first call even if it cannot treat wildlife itself, because it will know who does.

When you call, be ready to say what the animal is, what is wrong with it, exactly where you found it, and whether you have contained it. The location matters more than people expect: most rehabilitated wildlife is released back where it was found, because that is where its territory and its knowledge of food and water are.

## Special Cases Worth Knowing
**Cat-caught animals need a vet even if uninjured.** Cat saliva carries bacteria that cause fatal septicaemia in small animals within a couple of days. Antibiotics are needed quickly, and the absence of visible wounds means nothing.

**Bats should never be handled with bare hands**, anywhere. In the UK they are legally protected and there is a rabies-related risk; contact a bat helpline rather than handling. In the US, contact your state health department.

**Swans, geese and large birds** are strong enough to break a human arm. Do not attempt these alone.

**Deer** are extremely prone to capture myopathy and frequently die from the stress of handling rather than their injuries. Keep away and call.

**Animals hit by cars** should be moved off the road only if you can do so safely — your own safety comes first, and a live animal in a live traffic lane is a serious hazard to everyone.

**Baby birds that are clearly nestlings** can often simply be put back. If the nest is intact and reachable, replace them. Birds have a poor sense of smell and will not reject a handled chick — that is a myth.

## What WARN funds
- Nothing in domestic wildlife rehabilitation — WARN funds partner-led rescue overseas and does not operate a wildlife hospital
- Rescue and rehabilitation for animals confiscated from the wildlife trade in partner countries
- Free, practical public guidance of the kind on this page

## FAQ
### What should I do if I find an injured wild animal?
Contain it in a ventilated cardboard box lined with a towel, somewhere dark, quiet and warm, and contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator or veterinary practice immediately. Do not offer food or water, do not attempt any treatment, and handle it as little as possible. Wear thick gloves, and do not handle birds of prey, herons, swans, gulls, deer, badgers, foxes, bats or snakes at all without instruction.

### Should I give an injured wild animal food or water?
No. This is the most common and most dangerous mistake. A cold or shocked animal cannot digest, and liquid given by mouth is often inhaled into the lungs — aspiration pneumonia from well-meant feeding kills animals that would otherwise have survived their injuries. Never give cow’s milk to any wild mammal.

### Is a baby bird on the ground abandoned?
Usually not. A fledgling — feathered, hopping, poor at flying — is at a normal stage and its parents are nearby and still feeding it. Removing it is the most frequent well-intentioned harm done to wild birds. A nestling that is naked or downy does need help, and if the nest is intact and reachable it can simply be put back. Birds will not reject a chick because it has been handled.

### My cat caught a bird — does it need a vet?
Yes, urgently, even with no visible injury. Cat saliva carries bacteria that cause fatal septicaemia in small animals within a day or two, and antibiotics are needed quickly. The absence of wounds tells you nothing.

### Who do I call about injured wildlife?
A licensed wildlife rehabilitator or any veterinary practice — most vets will accept injured wildlife from the public without charging the finder. In the UK the RSPCA runs a 24-hour advice line and local wildlife hospitals exist in most areas. In the US, rehabilitators are licensed by state, and your state fish and wildlife agency maintains a directory.

### Can I keep and care for an injured wild animal myself?
No. Wild animals need species-appropriate rehabilitation and a release plan, and in many jurisdictions keeping wildlife without a licence is an offence. An animal that becomes habituated to people usually cannot be released, which turns a temporary injury into a permanent captivity.

Related appeal: https://worldanimalrescuenetwork.org/donate/
Human-readable page: https://worldanimalrescuenetwork.org/rescue/what-to-do-injured-wild-animal